So far, the sending unit they supply works with my original wiring and gauge. The in-tank pump is louder than I hoped, but this is my first experience with in-tank, so maybe it is what it should be. The construction of the tank is awesome and high quality. Just make sure your vent, feed/return lines, and wires for fuel pump and sending unit are long enough to go over the back cross member while the tank is sitting on the ground (if you're in a retro-fit situation). The M1A1 is a bit of bear to install by yourself, but it's possible. This is also with original body mounts that are probably about 1/2" thick. With a 1/4" air cleaner spacer and a 2" air cleaner, I have about 3/8" of space between the top of the cleaner housing and the hood. Hood clearance: This setup did sit higher than the stock 302 intake + EGR carb spacer + 2100 carburetor (I want to say it ended up about 3/4" taller). Most of the problems I've read about come from people not following the instructions (e.g., buying the wrong kit for the application, picking the wrong map for the system, wrong fuel pressure setting, not wiring the fuel pump correctly, not wiring the ECU correctly) - all stuff explicitly described in the instructions. The system comes with a set of pretty detailed installation and operating instructions - follow them. Lots of good, specific info and lots of horror stories that make you question what you're getting yourself into and why you didn't just learn more about carb's. There is a PF4 forum out there that is both helpful AND terrifying. Educate yourself about the system (I'm still doing this part). With installing everything above, and including reinstalling the accessory drive and radiator, new trans cooler and coolant/washer fluid tank, I had 40-50 hours in it.or at least that's what I'm telling myself. I only got to work on this project this winter on a few days off work and for a couple hours on Saturdays and Sundays while my kid napped. So, consider this if the PF4 is something you're thinking about doing. Even without some of the non-related EFI project stuff on the list, it still takes quite a bit of additional stuff to do it in what I would consider, or what my knowledge tells me is, the "right way". As can be seen from the parts list, this (for me anyway) was not just something you bolt on on a Saturday. Misc wire, clips, fasteners, sealants, etc. Lokar throttle and kickdown cable bracket TCB-40PFL (specifically for PF4) Motorcraft starter solenoid B6AZ11450B (I kept the old one just in case, thanks to reading on here) Fel-Pro 1250 S-3 intake gaskets.Fel-Pro 1250 S-3 intake gaskets.Fel-Pro 1250 intake gaskets (it's a long story) MagnaFlow Straight-Through muffler 11216 Scott Drake shorty headers w/Remflex 3003 gaskets Duffs 2-into-1 exhaust kit (minus headers and muffler) Assortment of -6AN Russel push lock fittings Aeromotive 13129 fuel pressure regulator and 15633 fuel pressure gauge Fuelab 818011 in-line 10 micron fuel filter Edelbrock heater hose intake fitting 8159 Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 kit (comes with new distributer) from WH What it took/what I bought while I was at it: This would fix everything, right? Well, kinda. Like a lot of other people have said, I wanted to get in, turn on the key and go. Instead of approaching the problem and solutions in small, calculated ways and learning more about carburetors (I was already thinking this about myself before your recent Huck post, Mike ), my brilliant solution was to convert to EFI. I wanted this to mostly be my family's (me, wife and 3 year old) weekend driver (and eventually, when my son gets older our excuse to go get in trouble somewhere) and I didn't want to put ourselves in the position of having to be towed from somewhere. Through this forum, I did some reading and came up with a few possible contributors (heat soak, vapor lock, etc). When I would take it out the following summer, I would have a lot of problems with hot starts. During the winter, I crawled and poked around the rig, rebuilt the 2150/2100 carb (it seemed to be in those between years) and changed the plugs, wires, and coil. I bought it in the fall of 2020 and drove it half a dozen times before winter hit. 2 1/2" suspension lift (no body lift with original, slightly compressed body mounts) Original C4 automatic w/original Dana 20 I also know this is pretty basic info for you guys that have been wrenching on Broncos since the Nixon administration, so don't role your eyes too hard at me. So, here is my experience installing the PF4 on my rig and hopefully you find a few takeaways if you're considering something similar. I know there have already been a couple of Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 install posts, but as I'm learning on this forum, inconsistency is the most common consistency with a classic Bronco.
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